NORTHWARD BOUND… 2

After spending a freezing night in tents at Deosai, getting drenched by a hailstorm while watching the reclusive brown bears and being almost blown away by a strong gale that started and died away without warning, we started loading our Prado’s top with our luggage. Suddenly someone noticed that one of the rear tyres was almost flat. The timing couldn’t have been worse because all were dead tired and unloading the vehicle again to get the tools and stepney seemed a dreadful prospect.Eventually we didn’t have to do that. We got out our manual Chinese made tyre inflator pump and started pumping air into the tyre. Each person had to do 50 pushes and then the next would take over. We managed to fill in enough air and started our journey onward to Skardu. The road was quite bumpy and broken. At some places it was just a dirt track becoming quite treacherous at other places but we managed to reach Skardu without incident. We stopped at Satpara Lake to see the lake, and the dam which was under construction then.

Sadpara is an extremely beautiful lake. The water changes its hue from green to blue according to the time of the day and contrasts sharply with the surrounding stark and barren granite cliffs. There is a small island in the middle which has become smaller because of the rising water. The restaurant by the lake was slowly becoming immersed and the lake water had started swallowing it and other areas around it.

Our host in Skardu was a government official and our stay had been arranged at a rest house. We had dinner at his place; well dinner is an understatement. It was a feast and the main culinary attraction was a stew made of Markhor meat. Please allow me to digress here a bit and tell you about this strange animal that has many myths attached to it, the Markhor.

First of all, we should give it the respect it deserves because it is the national animal of Pakistan! Unfortunately we have treated it like we treat all national assets, with contempt and disregard. It is prized as a hunting trophy and hunters go to great lengths to kill it. The species is classed by the ICUN as endangered, as there are fewer than 2,500 mature Markhors and the numbers have continued to decline by an estimated 20% over two generations. It is found in northeastern Gilgit-Baltistan, Hunza-Nagar valley, Northern and Central Pakistan and some parts of Jammu and Kashmir.According to folklore, the Markhor (Mar meaning snake and Khor meaning to eat) has the ability to kill a snake and eat it. Thereafter while chewing the cud, a foam like substance comes out of its mouth which drops on the ground and dries. This foam like substance is sought after by the local people who believe it is useful in extracting snake poison from snake bitten wounds and acts like a ‘taryak / geedar singhi’. It is also said that snakes dare not enter a house where there is a stuffed Markhor. Every well to do local wants to have a stuffed Markhor or its stuffed head in his drawing room.

In one local residence in Gilgit we had come across a stuffed Markhor that had become totally devoid of hair. Our host told us that each guest makes it a point to take a handful of hair before they leave to put in their home to ward off snakes.As we sat down to dinner our worthy host advised us to eat the Markhor meat in moderation since it is supposed to be ‘very hot and can keep people up at night’! The meat was akin to goat’s meat but drier, darker and somewhat tougher. I was amazed to see all kinds of stuffed animals in their home, including a snow leopard in the bedroom! A small room was full of Markhor meat being dried. Ah well… The advantages of being a high up government official include regular gifts of Markhor meat and stuffed animals!We had a most enjoyable hot shower followed by a very restful night at the rest house.

The next day we left for Shigar. The landscape on the way is like a desert with jagged rocks and rugged cliffs. It’s starkness is reminiscent of a Dali landscape.

Utterly devoid of vegetation, the desert like landscape seems to stretch forever until there is a water source. Then suddenly greenery erupts everywhere and such oases seem to materialize out of nowhere.

Shigar is a town about 40 km from Skardu and its great landmark is the Shigar Fort. Once home to the Raja of (the kingdom of) Shigar, its picturesque setting in the Shigar Valley provides the ideal gateway from which to explore some of the most spectacular scenery in the world.

Shigar Fort was taken over by the Aga Khan Foundation in 1999 and, following an intensive six-year restoration undertaken by Aga Khan Cultural Service has been open since June 1, 2005 as ‘Shigar Fort Residence. Originally known as Fong-Khar, which in the local Balti language means “Palace on the Rock”, this 400-year old Raja fort-palace has been brought back to life.

The result is a combination of authentic original 17th century architecture together with the modern amenities and services of a luxury guest house. It’s architectural style combines wooden beams with stones and concrete not only giving it a unique look but also making it ‘earthquake proof’. There is a cherry garden with branches laden with ripe, red cherries.

We had lunch at the Shigar Fort and if it had not been for the open air unique setting, we could have easily believed that we were at a five star restaurant in Lahore or Rawalpindi. You can stay at the Shigar Fort Residence in the master bedroom for around Rs 15,000 per night.

The Aga Khan Foundation is the flag bearer of development in the Gilgit-Baltistan area. The literacy rate here is said to be more than 90% in some places and this is because of the momentous work done by the Aga Khan Foundation for social uplift and in the sector of Education and health. Some schools here, being run under the auspices of the Aga Khan Foundation, are state of the art and can be compared favourably with any reputable schools in big cities.

Courtesy of our host we had been invited to tea at the residence of the Raja of Shigar who now lives nearby in a home built for him by the Aga Khan Foundation.

It was a rare treat to meet the Raja and his son, Mr Azam Khan, who is active in politics and had affiliations with Nawaz Sharif; I later heard he had joined MQM but I’m not sure. They greeted us as if we were old friends and we spent a very pleasant time chatting over tea and snacks.We later left for the Shangri La resort in late afternoon. Shangri La Resort, Skardu was established in 1983 by the late Brig. Muhammad Aslam Khan, the first commander of the Northern Scouts of the Pakistan Army.

The resort is on the Lower Kachura Lake, located at a drive of about 30 minutes from Skardu. It has a unique restaurant that is built in the fuselage of an aircraft that had crashed nearby and  was acquired by the owner at a ridiculously low price.

The spectacular beauty, breathtaking views, courteous staff and peaceful atmosphere make Shangri La resort a popular tourist destination, but its high end prices do their best to make it less accessible and consequently less popular among the masses!

After a most enjoyable stay we headed back to Skardu from where we took leave of our gracious hosts and headed back to Gilgit. The evening was spent in the bazaars of Gilgit. We bought some blankets, decoration pieces and semi-precious stones which are a specialty of the area and are mined indigenously. I got my car washed and after another night in the army mess, early the next morning, we bid Zaheer and family goodbye. They had been the epitome of hospitality and graciousness and we had spent a most enjoyable time with them. We were traveling alone and the journey back to Abbottabad was uneventful. We made very good time and reached Abbottabad by about 6 pm without incident.

Mark Twain says, “I have found out that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.” Traveling with ones family, through shared experiences, brings with it many opportunities to learn, bond and grow closer.I finish my account with yet another inspiring quote from Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”’Go Kiss the world’PS: This post is dedicated to Ansaar, an old student and a valued friend, simply because he asked for it and and is planning to visit these areas this summer.All pictures were taken by me except the ones of Markhor and first picture of Sadpara Lake. Any feedback regarding the post is considered a valuable help and is very welcome.